So this is a very touchy subject but I feel obligated to talk about it because it is extremely relevant to my situation here in Ghana and with my host family. There is a stark difference between the locals and the “obruni”, or rather the white people. As an “obruni” I am treated literally like I am better than everyone else. It sucks! For example, when we were at the big festival of Cape Coast, the president of Ghana gave a speech and his motorcade blocked off a huge area so they could protect him. However, when the local Ghanaians tried to see him better the police naturally pushed them back but allowed Haley and I to move closer just because of our skin color. Even though it was an amazing opportunity to see the president, it was incredibly unfair that us “obruni” got to see him while everybody else had to stand behind barricades of police. Everywhere that an “obruni” goes, they are treated automatically with a tremendous amount of respect and are put into positions of leadership and power, including myself. One thing that has really stood out to me is that my younger host sister Charlotte does not understand the meaning (both good and bad) behind race. She told me the other day when we were watching the TV show “Everybody Loves Chris” that it was not for “obruni”. This TV show is about the supposed life of Chris Rock when he was younger, but it is a comedy for the whole family. I was so taken aback that she did not want me to watch it and I asked her why it was not for “obruni”. She simply said because I am an “obruni” and the show was for black people only since the majority of the characters on the show are black. I had no idea what to say to that. This girl is only 4 years old, and her family is the farthest thing from being racist. I think she gets it from school, neighbors, friends, etc. On the other hand, later that day she came into my room and told me I was beautiful and that said she wanted to be too. I told her she was so beautiful (because she is the cutest thing ever and will one day break hearts) and can you guess what her response was? “I wish I was white.” You have got to be kidding me! This little girl thinks that the only way she will ever be beautiful is if she is white! This is insane. Even now I can’t begin to describe my feelings on this. Let me give you a brief history of Cape Coast. This area used to be the number one spot where people would buy, sell, trade and clean the slaves before taking them to market and/or taking them to the Americas. I have yet to take a tour of the Cape Coast Castle because of my ankle, but I have heard many stories that everybody walks away crying. I honestly wish that people would stop looking at skin color as a way to judge a person. One color is not better than another! People say that the consequences of slavery and segregation have ended, but have they really?
Sarah! I know exactly what you mean. The polarization between whites (mzungu) and the natives is so intense in Kenya too. It's seriously difficult. When I go abroad I love merging into the local culture and getting comfortable enough that I eventually blend in with the locals, but it is literally impossible here. It's been very trying on my character to not let the stigmas that surround white tourists in Kenya and otherwise. Women also are on a lower part of the totem pole here, so being a white woman in Kenya can be quite the double-whammy at times. Also I've experienced moreso of being slightly inferior as a white. Or at least gullible as shit, because everything costs more for whites (because "all white people are loaded") and they are always targeted for muggings and otherwise. In rural Kenya it is a bit easier, but even still, you are always looked at differently. No matter what you are "that white girl." So I know exactly what you're saying.
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